The
Aleutian Islands (possibly from
Chukchi aliat, "
island") are a chain of more than 300 small volcanic islands forming an
island arc in the Northern
Pacific Ocean, occupying an area of 6,821 sq mi (17,666 km²) and extending about 1,200 mi (1,900 km) westward from the
Alaska Peninsula toward the
Kamchatka Peninsula. Crossing longitude 180°, they're the westernmost part of the
United States (and technically also the easternmost;
see Extreme points of the United States). Nearly all the
archipelago is part of
Alaska and usually considered as being in the "
Alaskan Bush", but at the extreme western end the small, geologically-related, and remote
Komandorski Islands, are in
Russia. The islands, with their 57 volcanoes, are in the northern part of the
Pacific Ring of Fire. The
Alaska Marine Highway passes through the islands.
Geography
The islands, known before 1867 as the Catherine Archipelago, comprise five groups: the
Fox,
Islands of Four Mountains,
Andreanof,
Rat and
Near island groups. They are all located between 52° and 55° N latitude and 172° E and 163° W longitude.
The axis of the archipelago near the mainland of Alaska has a southwest trend, but near the 129th meridian its direction changes to the northwest. This change of direction corresponds to a curve in the line of
volcanic fissures that have contributed their products to the building of the islands. Such curved chains are repeated about the Pacific Ocean in the
Kuril Islands, the
Japanese chain and in the
Philippines. All these island arcs are at the edge of the
Pacific Plate and experience a lot of
seismic activity, but are still habitable; the Aleutians lie between the Pacific and North American
tectonic plates. The general elevation is greatest in the eastern islands and least in the western. The island chain is a western continuation of the
Aleutian Range on the mainland.
The great majority of the islands bear evident marks of volcanic origin, and there are numerous volcanic cones on the north side of the chain, some of them active; many of the islands, however, are not wholly volcanic, but contain crystalline or sedimentary rocks, and also amber and beds of
lignite. The coasts are rocky and surf-worn, and the approaches are exceedingly dangerous, the land rising immediately from the coasts to steep, bold mountains.
Makushin Volcano (5691 ft/1,735 m) located on Unalaska Island, isn't quite visible from within the town of
Unalaska, though the steam rising from its cone is visible on a (rare) clear day.
Denizens of Unalaska need only to climb one of the smaller hills in the area, such as Pyramid Peak or Mt. Newhall, to get a good look at the snow-covered cone. The volcanic
Bogoslof and
Fire Islands, which rose from the sea in 1796 and 1883 respectively, lie about 30 miles (48 km) west of Unalaska Bay.
Climate
The climate of the islands is oceanic, with moderate and fairly uniform temperatures and heavy rainfall. Fogs are almost constant. Summer weather is much cooler than Southeast Alaska (
Sitka), but the winter temperature of the islands and of the
Alaska Panhandle is very nearly the same. The mean annual temperature for
Unalaska, the most populated island of the group, is about 38 °F (3.4 °C), being about 30 °F (−1.1 °C) in January and about 52 °F (11.1 °C) in August. The highest and lowest temperatures recorded on the islands are 78 °F (26 °C) and 5 °F (−15 °C) respectively. The average annual rainfall is about 80 in (2,030 mm), and Unalaska, with about 250 rainy days per year, is said to be one of the rainiest places within the
United States. This type of climate is only comparable to those of:
Iceland,
Tierra del Fuego, the neighboring
Alaska Peninsula,
South Georgia,
Macquarie Island,
Heard Island and McDonald Islands.
Flora
The growing season lasts about 135 days, from early in May till late in September, but agriculture is limited to the raising of a few vegetables. With the exception of some stunted
willows, the vast majority of the chain is destitute of native trees. On some of the islands, such as
Adak and
Amaknak, there are a few
coniferous trees growing, remnants of the
Russian period. But while tall trees grow in many cold climates, Aleutian conifers—some of them estimated to be two hundred years old—rarely reach a height of even ten feet, and many of them are still less than five feet tall. This is because the islands, much like the
Falklands and other islands of similar
latitudes, experience such strong winds that taller trees are vulnerable to snapping off.
Instead of trees, the islands are covered with a luxuriant, dense growth of herbage, including
grasses,
sedges and many flowering plants.
Economy
On the less mountainous islands, the raising of
sheep and
reindeer was once believed to be practicable. There are Bison on islands near Sand Point. Sheep raising seems to have died off with the advent of synthetic fibers which lowered the value of wool. During the 1980s, there were some
llama being raised on
Unalaska. Today, the economy is primarily based upon
fishing, and, to a lesser extent, the presence of American military. The only crop is
potato.
Chickens are raised in barns under protection from cold.
Demographics
The native people refer to themselves as Unangan, and are now generally known by most non-natives as the "
Aleut".
The
Aleut language is one of the two main branches of the
Eskimo-Aleut language family. This family isn't known to be related to any others.
In the 2000
census, there was a population of 8,162 on the islands, of whom 4,283 were living in the main settlement of
Unalaska.
History
Prehistory
Because of the location of the islands, stretching like a broken bridge from Asia to America, many anthropologists believe they were a route of the first human occupants of the Americas. The earliest known evidence of human occupation in the Americas is much further south, in
New Mexico and
Peru; the early human sites in Alaska have probably been submerged by rising waters during the current
interglacial period.
People living in the Aleutian Islands developed fine skills in hunting, fishing, and basketry. Hunters made their weapons and watercraft. The baskets are noted for being finely woven with carefully shredded stalks of
beach rye.
Russian period
Explorers, traders, colonists, and missionaries arrived from
Russia beginning in 1741.
In 1741 the Russian government sent
Vitus Bering, a
Dane in the service of Russia, and
Alexei Chirikov, a Russian, in the ships
Saint Peter and
Saint Paul on a voyage of discovery in the Northern
Pacific. After the ships were separated by a storm, Chirikov discovered several eastern islands of the Aleutian group, and Bering discovered several of the western islands, finally being wrecked and losing his life on the island of the
Komandorski Islands (Commander Islands) that now bears his name (
Bering Island). The survivors of Bering's party reached the
Kamchatka Peninsula in a boat constructed from the wreckage of their ship, and reported that the islands were rich in fur-bearing animals.
Siberian fur hunters flocked to the Commander Islands and gradually moved eastward across the Aleutian Islands to the mainland. In this manner
Russia gained a foothold on the northwestern coast of North America. The Aleutian Islands consequently belonged to Russia, until that country
transferred all its possessions in North America to the United States in 1867.
The Russians were ruthless in their expansion, using technology and cruelty to enslave the Aleuts, especially for
sea otter hunting. The Russians captured otter pelts from the Aleutian Islands, through the
Gulf of Alaska, along the Alaska Panhandle, and south, even to
California. Some Aleuts were moved to the
Pribilof Islands so that fur seals could be captured there as well.
By 1760, the Russian merchant
Andrian Tolstykh had made a detailed census in the vicinity of
Adak and extended Russian citizenship to the Aleuts.
Despite some attempts to eliminate slavery and reduce cruel treatment in the 1790s, the
Shelikhov company depended on the labor of Aleut hunters to collect sea otter pelts.
During his third and last voyage, in 1778, Captain
James Cook surveyed the eastern portion of the Aleutian archipelago, accurately determined the position of some of the more important islands and corrected many errors of former navigators.
Christian influences
One of the first
Christian missionaries to arrive in the Aleutian Islands was a monk named Herman, who arrived in 1793 with nine other
Russian Orthodox monks and priests. Within two years, he was the only survivor of that party. He settled on
Spruce Island, near
Kodiak Island, and often defended the rights of the Aleuts against the Russian trading companies. He is now known in the Orthodox Church as St.
Herman of Alaska.
Another early Christian missionary of the
Russian Orthodox Church was Father Veniaminov who arrived in
Unalaska in 1824. He was named Bishop Innokentii in 1840 and moved to
Sitka. He is now known in the Orthodox Church as
Saint Innocent of Alaska.
The principal settlements were on Unalaska Island. The oldest was Iliuliuk (also called Unalaska), settled in 1760-1775, with a customs house and an
Orthodox church.
US possession
After the American purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867, further development took place. New buildings included a
Methodist mission and orphanage, and the headquarters for a considerable fleet of United States
revenue cutters which patrolled the
sealing grounds of the
Pribilof Islands. The first public school in Unalaska opened in 1883.
The
U.S. Congress extended American citizenship to all Natives (and this law has been held to include the indigenous peoples of Alaska) in 1924.
A hospital was built in Unalaska in 1933 by the US
Bureau of Indian Affairs.
World War II
During
World War II, small parts of the Aleutian islands were occupied by
Japanese forces, when
Attu and
Kiska were invaded in order to divert American forces away from the main Japanese attack at
Midway Atoll. The U.S. Navy, having broken the Japanese naval radio codes, knew that this was just a diversion, and it didn't expend large amounts of effort in defending the islands. A few Americans were taken to Japan as prisoners of war. Most of the civilian population of the Aleutians were interned by the United States in camps in the
Alaska Panhandle. During the
battle of the Aleutian Islands, American forces invaded Japanese-held Attu and defeated the Japanese, and subsequently regained control of all the islands. The islands were also a stopping point for hundreds of aircraft sent from California to Russia as part of the war effort.
Monday,
June 3,
2002 was celebrated as
Dutch Harbor Remembrance Day. The governor of Alaska ordered state flags lowered to half-staff to honor the 78 soldiers who died during the two-day Japanese air attack in 1942. The
Aleutian World War II National Historic Area Visitors Center opened in June 2002.
Recent and miscellaneous developments
The Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (
ANCSA) became law in 1971. In 1977, the
Ounalashka Corporation (from Unalaska) declared a
dividend. This was the first village corporation to declare and pay a dividend to its shareholders.
In 1906 a new volcanic cone rose between the islets of Bogoslof and Grewingk, near Unalaska, followed by another in 1907. These cones were nearly demolished by an explosive eruption on
1 September 1907.
Miscellaneous
The Aleutian Islands are an important part of the
National Missile Defense system proposed to defend the United States from small ballistic missile attacks. Shemya west of Dutch Harbor, is the site of top secret construction in 2007.
In the movie Balto II: Wolf Quest, the character Aleu was named after these islands.
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